When a Garment Cannot Easily Be Let Out
How to recognise when letting out will not work, and what to do instead.
What you will learn
- Judging seam allowance
- Reading a garment's construction
- Knowing when to stop
Signs a garment cannot be let out
- The seam allowance is 1/4 in (6 mm) or less. Many ready-made garments are trimmed to this, and sometimes the edge is finished with overlock stitching that leaves almost nothing.
- The seam was trimmed. If the raw edge has been cut close to the stitching, there is nothing to release.
- The fabric frays badly. A narrow allowance on this fabric will not hold.
- Old stitch lines or fold lines are heavy. Dark, dense, shiny or pressed fabric may keep permanent marks.
- The garment has structure: interfacing, boning, lining or a fitted waistband that would need rebuilding.
- The fabric is leather, suede, coated or sequinned. Needle holes cannot be closed.
How to check
Turn the garment inside out. Measure the allowance at the waist, hip and side seams. Also check the hem for depth, since a deep hem gives length.
Compare the gain with your need. Each seam gains twice the amount you release. If you need 2 in (5 cm) and the garment offers only 1/2 in (12 mm) of total gain, it will not fit.
What to do instead
- Take the garment to a tailor. Tailors can add a panel of matching fabric in a side seam or at the waist, or insert a gusset (a shaped insert).
- Add a contrasting panel or trim as a design feature, if the garment suits it.
- Change the closure. Moving a button or adding a hook and bar can gain 1/2 to 1 in (12 to 25 mm).
- Replace the garment. Some garments are cheaper to replace than to alter.
- Pass it on. A garment that cannot be made to fit is often a good donation.
Be honest about the result
An alteration that is possible is not always a good one. A garment let out to its limit loses its shape and may split under strain. A small gain that makes it comfortable is better than a large gain that fails.
Tips for a neat result
- Check the allowance before you buy a garment you plan to alter.
- Ask a tailor for an estimate before buying fabric or trim for a panel.
Common mistakes and fixes
I unpicked the seam and there is almost nothing there.
The allowance was too narrow. Re-sew along the old line, and consider a tailor's panel.
The seam splits after I let it out.
The allowance is too thin to bear stress. Do not let out that far.
Check your result
- You can state the allowance in your garment and the gain it gives.
- You know whether to let out, ask a tailor or replace the garment.