Simple adjustments

Secure Loose Seams and Facings

Tack down a facing that flips out at the neckline or armhole, and close small loose seams, using small hidden stitches.

Confident Beginner45 minHand

What you will learn

Turn the garment inside out and find the facing. Press it flat, using the right heat for the fabric.

Check the facing. If it has come loose from the main seam, re-sew the seam first. If it just rolls outward, it needs tacking down.
Press the neckline or armhole from the inside, rolling the seam slightly toward the facing so that the seam sits just below the edge. Use a pressing cloth.
Pin the facing flat against the garment at the shoulder seams and side seams. Tack only at the seams. Do not stitch across the middle of the facing, because stitches would show on the outside.
Cut 18 in (45 cm) of thread, thread the needle and knot the end. Hide the knot in the seam allowance.
Use catch stitch to tack the facing to the seam allowance. Bring the needle out of the facing edge, pick up one or two threads of the seam allowance, then return to the facing. Work in a zigzag with stitches about 1/4 in (6 mm) wide.
Catch stitch zigzags between the facing and the seam allowance. Each small stitch is taken backward underneath, so the slanted threads cross on top.
Make the stitches loose enough to allow movement. Pulling too tight causes puckering on the outside.
Repeat at each seam. Finish with a small knot hidden under the facing, and trim the thread.
Press again from the inside. Try on the garment. The facing should stay in place without showing from the front.
For a small loose seam, use a slip stitch or backstitch with small stitches. Match the original stitch line.

Under-stitching, a row of stitching close to the seam on the facing side, is the machine method for keeping facings down. It needs the seam open and is easier on new garments.
Use only 3 or 4 tacks per facing.

The facing still pops out.

It may be too wide or the tack too weak. Add one more tack at the seam, and press the seam line well.

Stitches show on the outside.

The needle caught the outer fabric. Pick up only the seam allowance, not the outer layer.

When to use a professionalTake the garment to a tailor if the facing is large, interfaced, torn, or part of a lined jacket or coat.