Take In Side Seams on a Skirt or Dress

What you will learn

• Pinning a new seam on the body
• Tapering a seam
• Basting then sewing

Materials and tools

• Garment
• Pins
• Chalk or marking pencil
• Seam ripper
• Matching thread
• Sewing machine or hand-sewing needle
• Iron and board
• Measuring tape

Before you start

• Put the garment on inside out. A helper pinches and pins the excess fabric at each side seam.

1. Wear the garment inside out. With a helper, pinch the extra fabric along each side seam and pin it. Take the same amount from both sides. Divide the total reduction by four, for two seams, to find the amount per seam edge.
2. Take the garment off and measure the pinned depth. A change of 1/4 to 1 in (6 to 25 mm) per seam is easy. For example, if you need to remove 2 in (5 cm) total, take 1/2 in (12 mm) from each of the four seam edges, since front and back each contribute at each side.
3. Mark the new seam line with chalk. The new line starts at the old seam, runs inward by the amount you need at the narrowest point, and tapers back to the old seam at the hip or hem. Keep the line smooth and gradual.

4. Do not cut or unpick yet. Pin the new line, then baste it by hand with long, loose stitches in contrasting thread.
5. Try on the garment right side out. Look at the side seams from the front and back. Sit, bend, and reach.
6. Adjust the basting if it pulls or wrinkles. Both sides must match. Measure each side from the underarm or waist to the hem.
7. When the fit is confirmed, sew the new seam on the machine with a 2.5 mm stitch length, or by hand with backstitch. Backstitch at the start and end.
8. Leave the old seam in place and the extra fabric uncut. If the fabric is bulky, trim the extra to 1/2 in (12 mm) and finish the edge with zigzag.
9. Press the new seam flat at the heat on the care label. Remove the old stitching only if it shows.

Tips for a neat result

• Never take in more than the garment's ease allows. Keep at least 1 in (2.5 cm) of ease at the hips.
• Taper the line, so there is no sudden step at the end of the seam.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• The garment fits smoothly with no drag lines.
• Both sides match and the side seams hang straight.
• You can sit and move comfortably.

Projects that use this