Common repairs

Mend a Small Tear Near a Seam

Repair a tear that starts at or runs beside a seam. Where the fit allows, take a slightly deeper seam to cut the damage away. Where it does not, back the tear with interfacing and restitch. Machine is preferable for the seam, while hand sewing suits the interfacing method.

Intermediate40 minHand or machine

What you will learn

Judging fit before changing a seam
Unpicking and resewing
Backing a tear

Before you start

Assess the damage. Turn the garment inside out and measure how far the tear runs from the seam, and how long it is.
Check the fit. A deeper seam makes the garment smaller. Taking 1/4 in (6 mm) deeper on a seam reduces the garment's circumference by 1/2 in (12 mm) at that seam. Try the garment on and see if it can afford the loss.
Check the seam allowance. A tear that has run into a narrow allowance of less than 1/4 in (6 mm) cannot be taken deeper, so you need to use interfacing.
Choose the method. If the damage is within 1/4 in (6 mm) of the seam and the fit allows, go deeper. If the fabric is damaged further out, back it.

Step by step

Turn the garment inside out. Unpick the seam 1 in (25 mm) past each end of the tear. Press the layers flat.
Put the garment on or hold it up to check the fit. If a deeper seam is acceptable, mark a new seam line 1/8 to 1/4 in (3 to 6 mm) inside the old one with chalk.
Pin the layers right sides together. Sew along the new line, blending into the old stitching at each end over 1 in (25 mm). The new seam should cut off the torn edge.
If the tear is too far from the seam, fuse a piece of interfacing behind it, 1 in (25 mm) bigger than the tear, after checking the care label and testing the iron on a hidden area. Close the tear with small zigzag or overcast stitches as in rep-woven-tear.
Resew the seam on the original line if you used the interfacing. Backstitch at each end and sew a second row 1/8 in (3 mm) away.
Trim the damaged edge and finish the raw edges with zigzag or overcast stitches.
Press the seam. Try on the garment again to check it still fits.

Tips for a neat result

Blend the new seam line into the old one gradually over 1 in (25 mm), so there is no kink.
If the tear is at the underarm, remember that a tighter seam will restrict movement.
Keep the cut-off strip. It may serve as a sewn-in backing for a later mend.

Common mistakes and fixes

The garment is now too tight.

The seam was taken in too much. Unpick and try 1/8 in (3 mm) or switch to the interfacing method.

A bump appears on the right side.

The seam line kinked. Blend the new line gradually into the old.

The tear reopens next to the new seam.

The fabric beyond the seam is also weak. Back it with interfacing.

Safety and fabric care

Press at the temperature on the care label, with a cloth. Do not iron over pins.

Check your result

The tear is no longer visible, or is firmly backed.
The seam is smooth with no kinks.
The garment still fits comfortably.

Stop it happening againChoose garments that fit comfortably across the seam, and do not strain the fabric at underarms and crotch seams.

When to use a professionalTake it to a tailor if the tear is in a structured garment, near a zip or button placket, or if the garment already fits tightly.

Projects that use this

Fix a Split SeamBeginner20 min Mend a Small Tear in Woven FabricConfident Beginner30 min