Common repairs

Mend a Small Tear in Woven Fabric

Repair a straight or L-shaped tear of up to 2 in (5 cm) with fusible interfacing behind it, then stitch across the tear. Machine zigzag is preferable for sturdy fabric, and hand stitching is gentler on delicate cloth. The mend shows close up and the area stays weaker than whole fabric.

Confident Beginner30 minHand or machine

What you will learn

Aligning torn edges
Fusing interfacing
Zigzag or hand stitching a tear

Before you start

Assess the damage. Look at the tear. A clean straight or L-shaped tear can be mended flat. A jagged tear or a hole with missing fabric will pucker.
Measure it. Tears over 2 in (5 cm) or tears in a stress area, such as a knee or seat, need a patch instead.
Check the fabric. Do a small test with the interfacing on a hidden area. Delicate or heat-sensitive fabrics can mark. If so, sew by hand with a backing of fine lining cotton instead.
Trim the fraying threads. Gently align the torn edges so the weave matches up.

Step by step

Turn the garment inside out. Cut a piece of interfacing 1 in (25 mm) larger than the tear on all sides. Round the corners.
Place the adhesive side of the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric, over the tear. Push the edges of the tear together so they touch.
Fuse with a press cloth, at a heat the care label allows. Hold the iron for 10 to 15 seconds in each spot, lifting, not sliding. Let cool.
Turn the fabric right side up. For machine: use a zigzag of width 2 mm and length 1 mm. Sew down the tear so the needle crosses both edges. For hand: use tiny overcast stitches across the tear.
Stitches cross the tear from one edge to the other.
At the corner of an L-shaped tear, stitch around the corner slowly. Leave the needle down and pivot at the point where the tear turns.
Sew a second pass of the same stitch directly over the first, so the tear is crossed twice.
Pull the threads to the back and tie off. Press from the wrong side with a cloth.

Tips for a neat result

A narrower stitch looks neater. Make the zigzag just wide enough to catch both edges.
Thread that matches the weft (crosswise) threads blends in best.
If the fabric frays easily, apply a thin line of fray sealant along the tear before stitching.

Common mistakes and fixes

The mend is stiff and shows as a patch.

The interfacing is too heavy. Choose the lightest weight.

The tear opens again after washing.

The fusible bond has failed. Press again with a press cloth, following the interfacing maker's instructions for heat and steam, and add a second pass of stitching.

The edges overlap and bulge.

You pushed them too far together. They should only touch.

Safety and fabric care

Iron on a heat-resistant surface with a press cloth. Check the care label for the maximum temperature.

Check your result

The edges lie together and the mend is flat.
The stitching is hard to see from a short distance.
The mended area flexes without cracking.

Stop it happening againDo not pull on tight seams or catch fabric on sharp objects. Mend a small tear early; it grows with each wash.

When to use a professionalTake silk, cashmere, vintage fabric and designer garments to a repairer. Fusible mends may weaken or mark delicate fabric.

Projects that use this

Sew a Missing Button Back OnBeginner15 min Close a Small Hole in Woven or Fine Knit FabricConfident Beginner25 min Mend a Small Tear Near a SeamIntermediate40 min