Common repairs

Close a Small Hole in Woven or Fine Knit Fabric

Close a hole up to 1/2 in (12 mm) across, such as a snag or moth hole, from the wrong side. By hand is preferable, since you can control tiny stitches. A fusible backing adds strength where the fabric around the hole is thin. The mend shows as a small line close up.

Confident Beginner25 minHand

What you will learn

Stitching a hole closed
Using fusible backing
Making tiny even stitches

Materials and tools

Hand needle, sharps size 9 or 10 (fine)
Thread that matches the garment (one strand of six-strand floss on fine fabric)
Lightweight fusible interfacing, 2 in (5 cm) square
Press cloth
Small scissors
Iron

Before you start

Assess the damage. Hold the hole up to the light. If the threads around it are strong when you tug them gently, you can stitch it. If the fabric tears as you tug, use rep-woven-tear or a patch.
Measure the hole. Over 1/2 in (12 mm), the fabric will pucker when drawn together, so use a patch. Note that closing a hole removes a little fabric, so the area may feel tight.
Choose the method. For sturdy fabric with a clean hole, stitch the edges together. For thin or worn fabric, fuse a backing first.
Check the care label, then test the iron temperature on a scrap or hidden hem. Fusible interfacing can leave a shiny mark or stiffen thin fabric.

Step by step

Turn the garment inside out. Trim stray threads from around the hole with small scissors. Do not cut away fabric you need.
If using a backing, cut interfacing 1/2 in (12 mm) bigger than the hole on all sides. Place the sticky side on the wrong side of the fabric, push the hole edges level, then press with a cloth for 10 seconds without sliding.
Thread a knotted needle. Bring it up through the backing or fabric about 1/8 in (3 mm) from the hole edge. Take a tiny overcast stitch across the hole, down on the far side, and up 1/8 in along.
Tiny stitches cross the hole from one edge to the other, 1/8 in (3 mm) apart.
Continue along the hole, pulling the thread just enough to bring the edges together without puckering. The stitches lie across the hole, not around it.
Add a second pass of stitches if the first looks sparse. Work in the opposite direction, crossing the first stitches.
Finish with a small knot on the wrong side. Pull it into the backing or the fabric and clip the tail.
Press from the wrong side with a cloth, using the temperature on the care label.

Tips for a neat result

Use a single strand of thread for a finer result. Double thread makes a lump.
On a printed fabric, stitch with the thread colour of the dominant print colour.
Do a tiny test on a scrap so you know how much the fabric will pucker.

Common mistakes and fixes

The fabric puckers around the repair.

The stitches are pulled too tight or the hole was too big. Loosen the tension; if it still puckers use a patch.

A stiff patch shows through the fabric.

The interfacing is too heavy. Use a lightweight, soft one or a scrap of thin lining fabric.

The hole reopens at the edge.

The surrounding fabric is worn. Extend the stitching 1/4 in (6 mm) further into good fabric or patch it.

Safety and fabric care

Fusible adhesive can leave a residue on the iron. Always use a press cloth. Do not iron over the knot.

Check your result

The hole edges lie together without a visible gap.
The area is flat or only slightly raised.
The backing does not show through on the right side.

Stop it happening againMend holes when they are tiny. Avoid snagging on rings and zippers, and wash delicate items in a mesh bag.

When to use a professionalTake it to a reweaver for cashmere, silk, fine wool or vintage items, where an invisible mend can be woven strand by strand.

Projects that use this

Mend a Small HoleConfident Beginner40 min Reinforce PocketsBeginner30 min Darn a Hole in a Sweater or SockConfident Beginner40 min Mend a Small Tear in Woven FabricConfident Beginner30 min