Reinforce Pockets

What you will learn

• Finding weak points
• Reinforcing with backstitch
• Making a bar tack

Materials and tools

• Garment
• Matching thread, strong polyester
• Hand-sewing needle, sharps size 8, or sewing machine
• Scrap of woven cotton for a patch
• Pins
• Iron and board

Before you start

• Turn the pocket inside out and examine it. Check the corners where it joins the garment.

1. Find the weak spots. They are usually at the top corners of a patch pocket, at the ends of the opening of a side pocket and at the pocket bottom seam.
2. Turn the garment inside out if working on a side pocket. Check for torn stitching, thin fabric and holes.
3. If the stitching is simply loose, re-sew. Match the stitch line, and use small backstitches 1/8 in (3 mm) long, or machine stitches with a 2.5 mm length.
4. To reinforce a corner, sew a bar tack across it. Stitch back and forth six times over the same 1/4 in (6 mm), making the stitches tight and side by side.

5. For a side pocket, reinforce the seam where the opening ends. Sew a small triangle of stitching, or backstitch over the last 1/2 in (12 mm).
6. If the pocket bag fabric is worn thin, patch it on the inside with a scrap of cotton, cut 1 in (2.5 cm) larger than the weak spot. Sew around the edge with small stitches.
7. Test the pocket. Put your hand inside and pull gently. Look for any new strain.
8. Press the area flat, using the heat for the fabric.

Tips for a neat result

• Reinforce before there is a hole. A worn pocket corner can be strengthened in minutes.
• Do not overfill pockets with heavy objects like phones and keys.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• The pocket holds objects without pulling at the corners.
• The stitching is firm and flat.