Essential stitches

Patching by Hand

Covering a hole or worn spot with a piece of fabric stitched over it or under it. This lesson covers how to prepare the patch and sew it down.

Confident Beginner45 minHand

What you will learn

Trim loose threads from the hole and press the area flat.
Cut the patch with rounded corners. The 1 in (25 mm) margin includes the 1/4 in (6 mm) turn-under.

Fold the raw edges of the patch 1/4 in (6 mm) towards its right side all round and press. Snip small notches into the turned edge at the rounded corners so they fold flat.
Turn the garment inside out. Lay the patch on the inside over the hole, with the right side of the patch against the inside of the garment, so the patch shows through the hole and its folded edges are hidden underneath.
Pin the patch in place, centred on the hole, with the pattern matching the garment if there is one.
Turn the garment to the right side. Fold the raw edges of the hole under 1/4 in (6 mm) and pin, snipping up to 1/4 in (6 mm) into the edge wherever it will not fold flat. Leave the edges raw if the fabric does not fray.
Sew round the hole with slip stitch, catching the patch below. Take stitches 1/8 in (3 mm) apart and pull gently.
Slip stitch around the hole. The thread travels inside the folded edge of the hole and takes a tiny catch in the patch below.
Turn the garment inside out and stitch the edges of the patch to the garment with a whipstitch, 1/8 in (3 mm) apart.
Press the patch from the wrong side with a press cloth, matching the heat to the care label.

The patch puckers.

The thread was tight. Loosen the stitches and press again.

The patch edges fray.

Raw edges were not folded under or finished. Fold under 1/4 in (6 mm) or whipstitch.

The patch shows too much.

The colour or texture does not match. Use a closer match or accept a visible repair.

Practice exerciseCut a 1 in (25 mm) hole in an old shirt and patch it from the inside. Wash the shirt and check the patch holds.