Applying Patches and Patch Reinforcements

What you will learn

• Positioning a patch
• Edge-stitching around a patch
• Working on a small area

Materials and tools

• Threaded machine
• Patch of woven cotton or denim, a little larger than the worn area
• Garment or practice piece
• Iron-on adhesive web (optional)
• Pins
• Iron and board
• Thread to match

Before you start

• Cut the patch about 1 in (2.5 cm) larger than the worn area on every side, with rounded corners. Press under 1/4 in (6 mm) on every edge.

1. Place the garment flat with the worn area on top. Center the patch over it with its pressed folds facing the garment.

2. Pin or fuse the patch in place. If using iron-on web, follow its instructions with the iron temperature suited to both fabrics.
3. Use a free arm, if your machine has one, for sleeves, legs and small tubes. It is a narrow removable section of the machine bed; your manual shows how to open it. Without a free arm, work the garment around the needle.
4. Start at one edge of the patch and sew close to the folded edge, about 1/8 in (3 mm) from it. At each rounded corner, stop with the needle down, raise the foot, turn the fabric a little and continue.
5. Go all the way around and overlap the start by 1/2 in (12 mm), with a few backstitches.
6. Sew a second row 1/4 in (6 mm) inside the first for extra strength, or sew a zigzag to cover the edge.
7. To back a worn area that has not torn yet, pin a patch behind it on the inside. Sew a rectangle of straight stitch around the worn area through both layers, then rows of straight stitch back and forth across it about 1/4 in (6 mm) apart. On denim, fit a jeans needle first, with the machine switched off and unplugged.
8. Press and check that the patch lies flat. Trim threads. If the garment is thin or the hole large, hand sewing may be a better choice.

Tips for a neat result

• Place the patch under a hole on the inside for a hidden repair, and zigzag through both layers.
• Use clips on thick fabric in place of pins.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• The patch is firmly attached all the way around.
• It lies flat and the stitching is even.