Blind Hem Stitch

What you will learn

• Picking up a single thread
• Hemming by hand
• Hiding stitches

Materials and tools

• Hand-sewing needle (sharps, size 8 or 9)
• Thread matched to the fabric, 18 in (45 cm)
• Pins
• Iron
• Scrap of fabric with a folded hem

Before you start

• Press the hem up and fold the raw edge under 1/4 in (6 mm), or finish the raw edge. Press the fold.
• Pin the hem in place and turn the garment so the inside faces you.

1. Fold the top of the hem back on itself about 1/4 in (6 mm), so the hem edge is turned back and the garment fabric is exposed behind it. Hold it with your thumb.
2. Knot the thread. Bring the needle out from inside the fold of the hem edge, so the knot is hidden.
3. Directly above, pick up one thread, or two at most, of the garment fabric with the tip of the needle. The bite is tiny and does not go through the front.

4. Slide the needle back into the hem fold, directly opposite the catch. Run it along inside the fold about 3/8 in (1 cm) and bring it out.

5. Repeat, keeping the thread loose. A tight blind hem draws the front fabric into dimples that show from outside.
6. Check from the right side after the first 2 in (5 cm). If you can see stitches, take smaller catches.
7. Finish with a knot hidden inside the fold. Press the hem lightly from the wrong side, matching the heat to the care label.

Tips for a neat result

• Keep the thread loose. A little slack makes the hem stay flat.
• Use thread that matches the garment, not the lining.
• Test on a scrap of the same fabric first.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• Only tiny dots show on the right side, if any.
• The hem lies flat with no puckers or pull lines.

Projects that use this