Secure a Loose Lining

What you will learn

• Slip stitch
• Folding a hem
• Leaving ease

Materials and tools

• The garment
• Hand-sewing needle (sharps, size 8)
• Thread matched to the lining, 18 in (45 cm)
• Pins
• Scissors
• Iron and press cloth

Before you start

• Turn the garment so the hem and lining are accessible. Check where the lining has come loose.
• Look at the lining length. It should hang about 1 in (25 mm) above the garment hem.

1. Find where the lining has separated. Turn the garment inside out and lay the hem on a table.
2. Check the length of the lining. It should hang at least 1 in (25 mm) above the outer fabric hem so that it does not show. If it is longer, fold up the extra, or trim it before you fold the edge under in the next step.
3. Fold the raw edge of the lining under 3/8 in (1 cm) and press with a press cloth on a low heat.
4. Pin the lining hem to the garment hem allowance, about 1 in (25 mm) from the hem edge. Keep a little slack, because the lining must move with you.
5. Thread the needle with 18 in (45 cm) of thread matched to the lining. Knot the end.
6. Sew the lining to the hem allowance with slip stitch. Pick up a thread of the hem allowance, then slide the needle along the fold of the lining 1/4 in (6 mm).

7. Work all the way round the hem, starting a new length of thread whenever one runs short. Do not pull the stitches tight. The lining needs ease so that it does not drag the garment.
8. Finish with a knot inside the fold and bury the tail.
9. Hang the garment and check that the lining does not show below the hem and does not pull the outer fabric.
10. Press the hem lightly from the wrong side, using a low heat.

Tips for a neat result

• Leave 1 in (25 mm) of lining above the hem.
• Do not sew through to the right side of the garment.
• Keep the stitches loose.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• The lining hangs smoothly, about 1 in (25 mm) above the outer hem.
• The outer fabric shows no stitches or dimples.