Core skills

Finishing Raw Edges

Three simple ways to stop woven fabric from fraying along a cut edge: zigzag, pinking and turn-and-stitch.

Beginner20 minMachine

What you will learn

Zigzag finishing
Pinking
Turning and stitching an edge

Before you start

Cut three strips. Fraying is when the cut threads in a woven fabric slowly come loose. Machine finishes slow this down.

Step by step

Zigzag finish: choose zigzag, set width to 3 to 4 mm and length to 2.5 mm. Place the strip so the zigzag lands near the raw edge, with the right swing just off the edge.
Sew along the edge slowly. Check the stitches catch the threads on the left side and swing off the fabric on the right side.
Pinked edge: cut along the second strip with pinking shears. They cut a zigzag edge that frays less. Pinking suits tightly woven fabric and is quick but less secure.
Turn-and-stitch: fold the edge of the third strip 1/4 in (6 mm) to the wrong side and press. Fold again 1/4 in (6 mm) if you want a double fold.
Sew a straight stitch close to the fold, about 1/8 in (3 mm) from it, along the whole edge.
Compare the three edges by pulling each lightly. Notice which one frays most.
Use zigzag for most seams, pinking for tightly woven fabric that does not fray much and turn-and-stitch where the edge may be seen or the fabric frays a lot.

Tips for a neat result

If your machine has an overlock or overcast foot, check your manual. It is a closer finish for the same job.
Finish edges before sewing seams when pieces are small. Finish after sewing when the seam allowance is pressed together.

Common mistakes and fixes

The edge curls in the zigzag.

The stitch is too wide or the tension too tight for a light fabric. Narrow the zigzag and lengthen it slightly, or sew it just inside the edge and trim close to the stitches.

Pinked edges still fray.

The fabric is loosely woven. Use zigzag or turn-and-stitch instead.

Check your result

The finished edge does not unravel when you pull it lightly.
The edge lies flat and does not curl.