Finishing Seam Allowances

What you will learn

• Zigzagging allowances
• Edge stitching
• Choosing a finish for the fabric

Materials and tools

• Threaded machine
• Two scrap pieces of woven cotton, 6 x 10 in (15 x 25 cm)
• Iron
• Pinking shears (optional)

1. Sew a plain seam with a 5/8 in (15 mm) allowance and press it open.

2. Zigzag each allowance separately: set the machine to width 3.5 mm and length 2.5 mm, and sew near each raw edge so the right swing falls off the edge.
3. Alternative for light fabric: press each raw edge 1/4 in (6 mm) under and stitch close to the fold (turn-and-stitch finish).
4. Alternative for dense woven fabric: trim both allowances with pinking shears.
5. Alternative for seams that will stay together: sew both allowances together with zigzag 1/4 in (6 mm) from the seam line, trim the extra allowance close to the zigzag and press to one side.
6. Trim any loose threads after finishing.
7. Press the finished seam. Compare the finishes by gently pulling each edge.

8. If your machine has an overlock stitch or overedge foot, check your manual. It gives a closer finish. A zigzag does the same job on any basic machine.

Tips for a neat result

• Finish allowances before sewing across them with a second seam.
• Choose the finish after testing on a scrap of the same fabric.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• No raw threads fray after rubbing the edge.
• The seam lies flat from the outside.

Projects that use this