Common repairs

Repair a Torn Pocket Bag

Fix the inner pocket bag when keys, coins or lint have worn through it. Machine sewing is quicker when you can pull the pocket out of the garment; hand sewing suits small tears or awkward corners.

Confident Beginner30 minHand or machine

What you will learn

Reaching into a pocket bag
Patching with scrap fabric
Closing seams to prevent fraying

Materials and tools

Before you start

Assess the damage. Turn the pocket inside out through the opening and look at where it is open: a split seam at the bottom, a hole in the fabric, or a torn corner.
A split seam needs only restitching. A hole larger than 1/2 in (12 mm) needs a patch. If the pocket bag is shredded, replace it with a new bag cut from a firm cotton.
Check where the pocket attaches. Pockets are sewn into side seams and waistbands. If the attachment itself has torn away, see rep-split-seam.
Choose the method. If the pocket pulls out far enough for the machine foot, machine is quicker. Otherwise hand sew.

Step by step

Turn the pocket inside out through the garment so you can see the stitching. Remove lint and loose threads.
If the seam has opened, fold the pocket bag at the seam line, pin, and sew along the old stitch line with 10 to 12 stitches per inch (2.5 mm). Backstitch at each end.
For a hole, trim loose threads. Cut a patch 1 in (25 mm) larger than the hole on all sides. Press under the edges of the patch by 1/4 in (6 mm).
Place the patch over the hole on the wrong side of the bag. Pin it. Hand sew with a whipstitch or machine stitch around all edges, 1/8 in (3 mm) from the fold.
Reinforce the repaired corner with a second row of stitches 1/8 in (3 mm) from the first. Round the corner slightly to stop lint collecting.
Finish the raw seam edges with a zigzag or overcast stitch, so they do not fray.
Turn the pocket right side out, push the corners out gently with a blunt tool, and press.

Tips for a neat result

Round the bottom corners of a pocket you repair, because a square corner traps coins and wears through.
Use a firm cotton or poly-cotton patch. Thin lining fabric tears faster than the pocket fabric.
A double row of stitching along the bottom prevents most repeat splits.

Common mistakes and fixes

The patch puckers the pocket.

You pulled the thread. Keep stitches relaxed and press after sewing.

The seam tears again beside the repair.

The nearby fabric is worn. Extend the patch 1 in (25 mm) beyond the weak fabric.

The pocket bag is now too small.

A deeper seam shortens it. Keep the seam allowance at 1/4 in (6 mm), or replace the bag.

Safety and fabric care

Check pockets for pins and sharp objects before you reach in. Keep fingers clear of the machine needle.

Check your result

Coins no longer drop through.
The pocket lies flat inside the garment with no lump at the seam.
All raw edges are enclosed or finished.

Stop it happening againKeep keys and coins in a bag or a separate pocket. Empty pockets before washing and do not overload them.

When to use a professionalTake it to a tailor if the pocket is a welt or jetted type, if the pocket bag is bonded to the outer fabric, or if the garment is lined.

Projects that use this

Reinforce a Worn Pocket CornerConfident Beginner15 min