Topstitching

What you will learn

• Setting a longer stitch
• Following a guide for even spacing
• Stitching slowly in a straight line

Materials and tools

• Threaded machine
• Scraps of woven cotton, two strips 4 x 10 in (10 x 25 cm)
• Topstitching or heavier thread (optional)
• Needle 90/14
• Ruler and chalk

Before you start

• Sew a seam, press it, and press the allowances to one side. Topstitching will go on the right side.

1. Set the stitch length to 3 to 3.5 mm. A longer stitch looks better on the surface.
2. Fit a needle size 90/14 if using heavier topstitching thread or on thick fabric, with the machine switched off and unplugged. Check that the thread and needle suit each other.
3. Mark a line 1/8 in (3 mm) from the seam or edge. Use chalk or a guide on the machine.
4. Place the right side up under the foot. Align the edge with the guide line or the edge of the presser foot.

5. Sew slowly and keep the distance from the edge steady. Look at the guide, not the needle.
6. At the start and end, pull both threads to the wrong side and tie them off, since backstitching shows.
7. Press the work lightly from the wrong side.
8. If your machine has an edge-stitching foot, it keeps an even distance. Check the manual for the right foot. If not, use the edge of the all-purpose foot or tape.

Tips for a neat result

• Test the stitch length and thread on a scrap before starting.
• Slow, even speed keeps topstitching straight.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• The topstitching is straight and the same distance from the edge throughout.
• The stitches are even in length and the thread ends are hidden.

Projects that use this