Common repairs

Mend a Hole in Denim From the Inside

Repair a hole with a backing patch inside, then fill the hole with rows of stitches that imitate the weave. A machine gives a firmer fill, while hand running stitches suit small holes and give more control.

Intermediate45 minHand or machine

What you will learn

Backing a hole
Machine or hand darning
Working in thick fabric

Materials and tools

Before you start

Assess the damage. Check the area around the hole for thin patches by pinching the fabric. Any fabric that feels like tissue will wear through again. Mark the thin area with chalk.
Measure the hole. This method works best for holes up to 2 in (5 cm). Larger holes should have a visible outside patch (rep-patch-jeans).
Choose a backing. Use denim of similar weight, or a cotton twill. For stretch denim use a stretch cotton.
Trim the frayed edges of the hole, but only the loose threads.

Step by step

Turn the jeans inside out. Cut the backing patch so it extends 1 in (25 mm) beyond the thin area on all sides. Round the corners.
Place the patch with its right side facing the wrong side of the jeans, so it shows through the hole. Pin it flat, then baste around the edge with long hand stitches.
Turn the jeans right side out. Set the machine to straight stitch, length 2.5 mm. Sew rows back and forth across the hole, about 1/16 in (2 mm) apart and running the same way as the lengthwise threads of the denim, extending 1/2 in (12 mm) beyond the hole.
At the end of each row, stop with the needle down, lift the foot, turn the fabric 180 degrees and sew back. Do not stretch the fabric.
Turn the work 90 degrees and sew rows across the first set, to form a grid over the hole. For a hand repair, use running stitches in the same grid pattern.
Sew around the edge of the backing patch with a zigzag, to stop it lifting inside the leg.
Remove the basting stitches. Trim thread tails and press from the wrong side.

Tips for a neat result

A denim colour thread blends better than a perfect match. Test on a scrap.
Add a double row of stitches across the middle of the knee where the denim bends.
Keep stitches of the same length for a neat, even fill.

Common mistakes and fixes

The repair is stiff and ridged.

Rows are too close or thread is too heavy. Space the rows 1/8 in (3 mm) apart and use all-purpose thread.

The backing patch moves.

It was not pinned or basted. Baste before sewing.

A new hole appears at the edge of the repair.

The nearby denim was thin. Extend the stitching and backing further out.

Safety and fabric care

Use a jeans needle and sew slowly over thick seams. Unplug the machine before changing the needle.

Check your result

The hole is filled with an even grid of stitches.
The backing is flat inside the leg.
The repair is firm and does not stretch out of shape.

Stop it happening againReinforce thin knees and thighs before they hole. Wash jeans inside out and avoid friction on rough surfaces.

When to use a professionalTake it to a specialist if the denim is raw, selvedge or expensive, since visible mends can reduce value. A professional can use a hidden weave repair.

Projects that use this

Patch Jeans With an Outside PatchConfident Beginner45 min Reinforce Areas Prone to WearConfident Beginner35 min