Simple techniques

Practical Uses for Zigzag

Everyday jobs for the zigzag stitch: finishing edges, sewing stretch seams, joining overlapped edges and making buttonhole-like bars.

Confident Beginner25 minMachine

What you will learn

Edge finishing: set width 3.5 mm and length 2.5 mm. Sew along the raw edge so the swing just reaches past it.
Stretch seam on knits: switch off, unplug and fit the ballpoint needle. Set width 1 to 1.5 mm and length 2.5 to 3 mm. A narrow zigzag gives the seam some stretch. Use it if your machine has no stretch stitch.
Joining flat pieces: overlap two edges by 1/4 in (6 mm) with no fold and sew a zigzag down the center. This makes a flat, low-bulk join, used for interfacing and some repairs.
Appliqué edges: cut a shape from cotton, pin it to a base and sew a close zigzag, width 3 mm and length 0.5 mm, around the outer edge.
Bar tack: set a dense zigzag with width 3 mm and length near 0.5 mm. Sew in place for 6 to 8 stitches over a stress point.
Test each use on scrap and check the result before using it on the real piece.
If your machine has a stretch stitch or overlock stitch, check your manual. These are better for knits and heavy edges, but a zigzag is a workable alternative.

Narrower zigzag is neater on thin fabric.
Dense zigzag needs a slow speed and may need a stabilizer (a layer of paper or tear-away backing) under thin fabric to stop it puckering.

Fabric puckers under zigzag.

The stitch is too dense for thin fabric. Lengthen it or add a stabilizer.

Zigzag seam on knit is not stretchy.

The stitch is too long and too narrow, or tension too tight. Widen it to 1.5 or 2 mm, shorten slightly and lower tension by one number.