Choosing a Hand-Sewing Needle
Hand needles come in several types and sizes. This lesson shows how to read the size numbers and pick the right needle for your fabric and thread.
What you will learn
- Reading needle sizes
- Matching needle to fabric
- Caring for needles
Parts of a needle
A hand-sewing needle has three working parts. The point pierces the fabric, the shaft carries the thread through, and the eye is the hole at the blunt end that holds the thread.
A needle that is too thick leaves visible holes. A needle that is too thin bends and is hard to thread. The aim is a needle that slides through the fabric with light pressure while the thread follows without dragging.
How the size numbers work
Hand needles are sold by number, and a bigger number means a finer needle. A size 3 is thick and long. A size 10 is thin and short. This is the reverse of what many people expect.
Packs are often sold as assorted sizes, such as 3 to 9. If you are buying one pack to start with, get an assorted pack of sharps. Machine needles use a different numbering system, so do not mix up the two.
The main types
| Type | Common sizes | Eye and length | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sharps | 1 to 12 (7 to 9 for general use) | Medium length, round eye | Seams, hems, buttons and repairs on woven fabric |
| Betweens (quilting needles) | 3 to 12 (8 to 10 for fine stitching) | Short, small round eye | Small, firm stitches, thick layers, fine hand finishing |
| Embroidery or crewel | 1 to 10 (5 to 9 is common) | Long, wide eye | Thick thread or several strands of embroidery floss |
| Ballpoint | 5 to 10 | Medium length, rounded tip | Knit fabrics such as T-shirt jersey and sweaters |
| Darning | 1 to 9 | Long, large eye | Mending knits and weaving over holes |
| Milliner's (straw) | 3 to 10 | Very long, round eye | Basting and gathering with long stitches |
Which one to start with
For general sewing on woven cotton, linen or similar fabric, use a size 8 sharp. Use a thicker needle, size 6 or 7, for thicker fabric or when you want an easier eye to thread. Use a finer needle, size 9 or 10, for fine fabric.
For knits, use a ballpoint needle. Its rounded tip slides between the loops of yarn instead of cutting them. A sharp point can snip yarns in a knit and leave a small hole that grows.
Checking the fit
- The needle should pass through the fabric with light finger pressure. If you have to push hard, the needle is too thick for the fabric or too blunt.
- The thread should fit through the eye without being squeezed. Thick thread needs a long, wide eye.
- The needle should not leave a hole bigger than the thread. If you see holes in a fine fabric, move to a finer needle.
Caring for needles
Keep needles in a pin cushion or a needle case, not loose in a drawer. Throw out any needle that is bent, rusty or has a dull point that snags the fabric. A damaged needle can leave marks and pulls on the fabric.
Count your needles before and after a project so that none are left in the sofa or on the floor. Dispose of old needles in a sealed container, such as a small tin or a bottle with a lid.
Tips for a neat result
- Buy one assorted pack of sharps before buying special needles.
- Keep one needle for each job so you do not need to rethread between tasks.
- If a needle feels sticky in the fabric, replace it. Do not force it.
Common mistakes and fixes
The needle is hard to push through the fabric.
The needle is too fine or too thick for the layers, or has gone blunt. Try a different size, and replace any needle that has been used for a long time.
Holes show around the stitches.
The needle is too thick for the fabric. Move to a finer needle, such as a size 9 or 10.
The thread keeps coming out of the eye.
The tail is too short, or the eye is too big for the thread. Pull at least 4 in (10 cm) of thread through the eye, or use a finer needle with a smaller eye.
Check your result
- The needle moves through the fabric with light pressure.
- The stitches leave no obvious holes.
- The thread passes through the eye without fraying.