Working with Woven, Knit, Thick and Delicate Fabrics
Different fabrics need different needles, thread and stitches. Use this guide to choose the right setup before you start.
What you will learn
- Identifying fabric type
- Choosing needle and thread for a fabric
Identifying your fabric
A woven fabric is made of threads that cross at right angles, like a basket. It frays at cut edges and does not stretch much along the threads. Shirts, jeans and most bedsheets are woven.
A knit fabric is made of loops, like a sweater. It stretches, curls at the edge and does not fray much. T-shirts, leggings and sweatshirts are knit. Pull the fabric gently across its width, not on the diagonal. If it stretches easily, it is probably a knit. Woven fabric stretches on the diagonal only, unless it contains elastic fibre.
Thick fabric includes denim, canvas, upholstery and wool coating. Delicate fabric includes silk, chiffon, lace and very thin cotton. Each needs special care.
Quick setup guide
| Fabric | Needle | Thread | Stitches that suit | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Woven (cotton, linen, poplin) | Sharps, size 7 to 9 | All-purpose polyester | Running stitch, backstitch, slip stitch, blind hem | Raw edges fray, so finish them |
| Knit (jersey, sweater) | Ballpoint, size 7 to 9 | Polyester, which has some give | Backstitch with slack thread, ladder stitch, slip stitch | Pulling stitches tight makes seams snap |
| Thick (denim, canvas, coating) | Sharps, size 3 to 5, with a thimble | Heavy-duty or topstitch thread, or doubled all-purpose | Backstitch, whipstitch, catch stitch | Hard on hands. Use a thimble and pliers |
| Delicate (silk, chiffon, lace) | Fine sharps or betweens, size 10 to 12 | Fine polyester or silk thread, single strand | Tiny running stitch, slip stitch, French seam (advanced) | Marks from pins and needles, and puckers |
Woven fabric tips
Woven fabric is the easiest to sew by hand. Use an 8 sharps and all-purpose polyester thread. Finish raw edges with an overcast or whipstitch to stop them fraying.
Keep stitches 1/8 in (3 mm) long for seams, and press as you go.
Knit fabric tips
Knits need stitches that can stretch. Leave a little slack when you pull the thread. Use a ballpoint needle so you do not cut the yarns.
Do not use cotton thread on a stretchy seam, because it has no give and may snap. Do not press knits hard, as the iron flattens loops and stretches the shape.
Thick fabric tips
Use a thimble and a strong, short needle. Push the needle in steps. Take slightly longer stitches than you would on lighter fabric, up to 3/16 in (5 mm), since each one passes through thick layers.
A bulky seam can be tapped flat with a clapper or the side of a hammer before sewing. Wax your thread to help it slide.
Delicate fabric tips
Use a fine needle and a single thread. Pin inside the seam allowance with fine pins, and use few pins. Avoid unpicking, because holes may stay.
Place tissue paper or a stabiliser under slippery fabric if it moves while you sew, and tear it away afterwards. Sew with a very small stitch, about 1/16 to 1/8 in (1.5 to 3 mm).
Tips for a neat result
- Test your needle and thread on a scrap from the same fabric.
- Check the care label before choosing an iron setting.
- If you are unsure, use a finer needle and a smaller stitch.
Common mistakes and fixes
A knit seam splits when you wear the garment.
The stitches were pulled too tight or cotton thread was used. Resew with slack polyester thread.
A hole appears next to the stitches on fine fabric.
The needle was too thick. Use a size 10 or 12.
The needle will not go through thick fabric.
The needle is too fine. Use a heavier needle and a thimble, and push in steps.
Check your result
- The needle goes through the fabric easily and leaves no large hole.
- The seam can move with the fabric without breaking or puckering.