Choosing Thread That Matches the Fabric
How to pick thread colour and type so repairs blend in and the thread suits the fabric.
What you will learn
- Matching thread colour
- Choosing thread types
Matching the colour
Take a scrap of the fabric to the shop, or hold the spool against the garment in daylight. Shop lighting can change how colour looks.
If you cannot find an exact match, choose a shade slightly darker than the fabric. Thread shows up lighter when stitched, because a stitch catches light and sits on the surface. A thread that is lighter than the fabric looks like a bright line.
On a print, match the main colour of the background, or the colour that covers the most area. On a stripe, match the colour that is next to the seam. Thread in a very slightly different shade usually looks fine from a normal distance.
Thread types
| Thread | What it is | Use it for | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| All-purpose polyester | Strong, smooth, with a little stretch | Seams, hems, repairs and buttons on most fabrics, including knits | Melts under a very hot iron, so press on low to medium heat |
| Cotton | Natural fibre, matte look, no stretch | Cotton and linen fabric, quilting, basting | Weaker than polyester, so it can snap in seams that are pulled hard |
| Heavy-duty or upholstery | Thick polyester or nylon | Buttons on coats, bags, denim, canvas | Needs a needle with a bigger eye, such as a size 5 or 6 |
| Topstitch | Thick, 30-weight polyester or cotton | Visible decorative lines and denim repairs | Needs a long-eyed needle and shows more than regular thread |
| Silk | Fine, strong, smooth | Silk fabric, wool tailoring, basting | Costs more and is harder to find in many colours |
Quick rules
- Use polyester thread for most repairs. It is strong and widely available.
- Cotton thread works well on cotton fabric and takes the same iron heat as the cloth.
- Use thread no stronger than the fabric if the fabric is weak. Thick thread can tear a weak fabric when pulled.
- For buttons, use heavy-duty thread or doubled all-purpose thread.
- Save bright contrasting thread for basting, because it is easy to see and pull out.
Tips for a neat result
- Keep a small tin of black, white, grey, beige and navy polyester thread for emergencies.
- Test the thread on a hem or scrap before using it on a visible repair.
- Store spools away from sunlight, which weakens thread and fades colour.
Common mistakes and fixes
The repair thread looks brighter than the fabric.
The thread is lighter than the fabric. Choose a shade slightly darker.
The thread snaps under strain.
Cotton or old thread was used where the seam gets pulled. Switch to polyester, or doubled polyester for heavy wear.
The thread puckers the fabric.
The thread is too thick for lightweight fabric. Move to a finer thread, such as 60-weight polyester.
Check your result
- The thread blends with the fabric from arm's length.
- The thread is strong enough for the job but not stronger than the fabric.