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What Embroidery Is
What hand embroidery is, how it differs from cross-stitch, and which stitches do which jobs.
EmbroideryEmbroidery Materials: What to Buy First
Each embroidery supply, what it is for, what to buy as a beginner, what you can substitute, and what is optional.
EmbroideryEmbroidery Floss and How to Separate Strands
How stranded floss is made, how many strands to use, and how to separate them without a tangle.
EmbroideryChoosing Fabric for Embroidery
Which fabrics are easy to embroider, which to avoid at first, and how to prepare fabric before stitching.
EmbroideryHow to Use an Embroidery Hoop
Mount fabric in a hoop so it is tight and stays tight. Taut fabric is what stops stitches puckering.
EmbroideryTransferring a Design to Fabric
Four ways to get a drawing onto fabric, and which to use for light, dark or thick fabric.
EmbroideryStarting and Finishing Thread Securely
Three ways to anchor thread at the start and one reliable way to finish, with and without knots.
EmbroideryTangles, Puckers and Uneven Tension
The three problems every beginner meets, what causes each, and how to avoid them.
EmbroideryWashing and Caring for Finished Embroidery
How to wash, dry, press and store an embroidered piece or garment.
EmbroideryEmbroidering on Clothes: Needles, Stabilizers and Thread
How to choose needle, stabilizer and thread for different garments, especially stretchy and delicate fabrics.
EmbroideryRunning Stitch
A dashed line made by passing the needle up and down through the fabric at even intervals. The first stitch to learn.
EmbroideryBackstitch
A solid, unbroken line. Each stitch goes backward to meet the one before it.
EmbroideryStem Stitch
A slightly raised, rope-like line. Each stitch overlaps the last by half.
EmbroiderySplit Stitch
A fine, slightly textured line made by bringing the needle up through the middle of the previous stitch.
EmbroideryChain Stitch
A row of linked loops that makes a bold, textured line.
EmbroideryLazy Daisy Stitch
A single chain-stitch loop pinned down at its tip. Five or six in a circle make a flower.
EmbroiderySatin Stitch
Straight stitches laid side by side to fill a shape with a smooth, solid surface.
EmbroideryFrench Knot
A small raised dot made by wrapping the thread round the needle before going back down.
EmbroideryColonial Knot
A knot wrapped in a figure of eight. Slightly rounder and firmer than a French knot.
EmbroideryBlanket Stitch
A row of upright stitches joined by a line of thread along one edge.
EmbroideryFeather Stitch
Open V-shaped loops worked alternately left and right down a line, like a branching vine.
EmbroideryFly Stitch
A single V or Y shape: an open loop pinned down by a straight stitch at its base.
EmbroideryWoven Wheel Stitch
A raised rose made by weaving thread round and round five straight spokes.
EmbroideryCouching Stitch
One thread is laid on the fabric surface and tacked down with small stitches in a second thread.
EmbroiderySeed Stitch
Tiny straight stitches scattered in different directions to shade or texture an area.
EmbroideryWhipped Backstitch
A backstitch line wrapped with a second thread to make a smooth, raised, cord-like line.
EmbroideryA Simple Embroidered Flower
Your first complete motif: a daisy with a knotted centre, a stem and two leaves. Uses four stitches.
EmbroideryA Leaf Sampler
Six leaves on one branch, each worked in a different stitch. A good way to compare fills and outlines.
EmbroideryInitials and Simple Lettering
Stitch a monogram or a short word. Covers choosing a letter style, transferring it and picking a stitch for the letter size.
EmbroideryA Small Decorative Patch
Embroider a simple motif on felt, edge it with blanket stitch, and sew it to a bag or jacket.
EmbroideryA Floral Embroidery Hoop
A small wreath of roses, daisies and leaves, finished and displayed in its hoop.
EmbroideryEmbroidered Details on a Denim Jacket or Tote Bag
Add a small motif to a pocket, collar or bag front. Covers working on thick fabric and making stitching that survives wear and washing.
Cross-StitchWhat Cross-Stitch Is
Counted cross-stitch explained: the grid fabric, the chart, and the single stitch that makes the picture.
Cross-StitchAida, Evenweave and Fabric Count
How cross-stitch fabric works, what count means, and how count changes the finished size.
Cross-StitchChoosing a Needle and Preparing Floss
Why cross-stitch uses a blunt needle, which size fits which fabric, and how to separate floss.
Cross-StitchHow to Read a Cross-Stitch Pattern
Symbols, colour keys, grid lines and centre marks: everything printed on a chart and what it means.
Cross-StitchFinding the Centre of the Pattern and Fabric
Match the middle of the chart to the middle of the fabric so the design ends up centred with even margins.
Cross-StitchCross-Stitch Supplies for a Small First Project
What each supply does and how to choose it for a small beginner design.
Cross-StitchFinishing and Washing a Completed Piece
How to check, wash, press and mount finished cross-stitch.
Cross-StitchKeeping Stitches Neat and Consistent
Why every top leg must slant the same way, and the habits that give flat, even crosses.
Cross-StitchThe Basic Full Cross-Stitch
The X-shaped stitch that makes up almost every design. Learn it one at a time, then in rows.
Cross-StitchStarting and Finishing Thread Without Knots
Secure thread on the back of the fabric so the piece lies flat. Knots make bumps and can pull through the holes.
Cross-StitchHalf Stitches
One diagonal leg of a cross on its own. Gives a lighter, more transparent colour.
Cross-StitchQuarter Stitches
A short stitch from one corner of a square to its centre. Used to shape curves and fine detail.
Cross-StitchThree-Quarter Stitches
A quarter stitch plus a full diagonal. It fills a square as a triangle so edges look smooth.
Cross-StitchPositioning Fractional Stitches
How to read fractional symbols on a chart and decide which stitch goes in which corner.
Cross-StitchBackstitch Outlining
Thin straight lines stitched over or between crosses to add outlines, lettering and detail.
Cross-StitchFrench Knots in Cross-Stitch Patterns
Small raised dots used for eyes, berries and the dots on letters.
Cross-StitchWorking with Multiple Colours
In what order to stitch colours, when to carry thread across the back, and when to stop and restart.
Cross-StitchAvoiding Visible Gaps and Uneven Tension
What causes fabric to show between stitches or crosses to look uneven, and how to fix each cause.
Cross-StitchTiny Heart
A 9 by 8 stitch heart in one colour. The ideal first chart: small, symmetrical and quick.
Cross-StitchSimple Flower
An 11 by 15 stitch flower in three colours. First practice at changing colour.
Cross-StitchStrawberry Motif
A 9 by 12 stitch strawberry with yellow seeds and a leafy top.
Cross-StitchBeginner Alphabet
A full capital alphabet, each letter 5 stitches wide and 7 high. Stitch it as a sampler or use the letters for names and dates.
Cross-StitchPersonalized Initial
Pick any letter and get a chart for a large initial inside a dotted border, 18 by 22 stitches.
Cross-StitchDiamond Bookmark
A 13 by 45 stitch bookmark with four diamonds inside a solid border.
Cross-StitchDecorative Wreath Hoop
A 25 by 25 stitch leaf-and-blossom wreath with a heart in the middle, sized to display in a 4 in (10 cm) hoop.
Cross-StitchSmall Sampler
A 33 by 41 stitch sampler: lettering, a heart, a strawberry, a row of diamonds, a dotted border and a backstitch line.
Hand SewingChoosing a Hand-Sewing Needle
Hand needles come in several types and sizes. This lesson shows how to read the size numbers and pick the right needle for your fabric and thread.
Hand SewingHow to Thread a Needle
A clear method for getting thread through the eye of a needle, with a needle threader as a backup for small eyes or tired hands.
Hand SewingMeasuring and Cutting Thread
How long to cut your thread, and when to use a single strand or a doubled strand.
Hand SewingStarting and Finishing Knots
Two ways to tie a knot at the end of your thread to start sewing, and a small knot to finish a line of stitches securely.
Hand SewingHow to Use a Thimble
A thimble protects the finger that pushes the needle. This lesson covers how to choose one, where it goes and how to push a needle through thick fabric.
Hand SewingChoosing Thread That Matches the Fabric
How to pick thread colour and type so repairs blend in and the thread suits the fabric.
Hand SewingHow to Sew Without Puckering
Puckering happens when stitches pull the fabric into tiny wrinkles. These habits keep your seams flat.
Hand SewingSecuring the Start and End of a Seam
A seam that is not locked at each end will pull out. Learn three ways to lock thread: a knot, backstitches in place and burying the tail.
Hand SewingPressing Seams and Folds Safely
Pressing sets stitches and makes seams lie flat. This lesson explains the difference between pressing and ironing, and how to avoid burning or marking fabric.
Hand SewingWorking with Woven, Knit, Thick and Delicate Fabrics
Different fabrics need different needles, thread and stitches. Use this guide to choose the right setup before you start.
Hand SewingChoosing the Right Hand Stitch
A side-by-side guide to stitches that are often confused: backstitch and running stitch, slip stitch and whipstitch, and a blind hem versus a visible hem.
Hand SewingRunning Stitch
The simplest hand stitch: the needle weaves in and out of the fabric in a straight line. It is quick and is used for light seams, gathering and mending.
Hand SewingBackstitch
A strong stitch where each stitch goes back to meet the last. It looks like a machine seam from the front and is the best hand stitch for seams and repairs.
Hand SewingBasting (Tacking)
Basting is a long, loose temporary stitch that holds layers together while you sew the permanent seam. You pull it out afterwards.
Hand SewingSlip Stitch
A nearly invisible stitch for closing openings and attaching a folded edge to flat fabric. The thread travels hidden inside the fold.
Hand SewingLadder Stitch
A hidden stitch that pulls two folded edges together like the rungs of a ladder. It is the best stitch for closing the gap in a stuffed toy or cushion.
Hand SewingBlind Hem Stitch
A hem stitch that catches only a thread or two of the garment, so tiny dots show on the outside. It suits trousers, skirts and dress fabrics.
Hand SewingWhipstitch
Slanted stitches that wrap over the edge of the fabric. They join two edges, secure a patch or stop an edge fraying.
Hand SewingOvercast Stitch
A stitch worked over a raw edge to stop it fraying. It is a close cousin of whipstitch, with deeper stitches set closer together.
Hand SewingBlanket Stitch
A looped edge stitch that finishes a raw edge and adds a neat decorative border. It is used on blankets, felt and appliqué.
Hand SewingCatch Stitch (Herringbone)
A criss-cross stitch with some stretch, used for hems on thick or stretchy fabrics where a blind hem would pull.
Hand SewingSewing on a Button
How to sew on a two-hole or four-hole button and make a thread shank, which is a short stalk of thread that lets the button sit above the fabric.
Hand SewingReinforcing a Seam
Strengthening a weak or stressed seam with a second line of stitches. This helps with seams that keep splitting.
Hand SewingDarning
A technique for mending holes by weaving new thread across the gap. It builds a new patch of fabric in the hole.
Hand SewingGathering Stitches
Two rows of long running stitches that you pull to bunch fabric into even folds. Gathers fit a wide piece of fabric into a narrower edge.
Hand SewingHooks, Eyes and Snaps
How to sew on hook and eye closures and snap fasteners so they stay put and the stitches stay hidden.
Hand SewingPatching by Hand
Covering a hole or worn spot with a piece of fabric stitched over it or under it. This lesson covers how to prepare the patch and sew it down.
Hand SewingSew on a Loose or Missing Button
Reattach a button that is hanging by a thread, or replace one that has fallen off. This is a good first repair and suits a complete beginner. Coat buttons with a metal shank, and fabric torn around the button, need more advanced work.
Hand SewingMend a Split Seam
Close a seam that has come open along its stitching line. This suits a beginner when the fabric on both sides of the split is intact. It needs more advanced technique when the fabric is frayed or torn, or the seam is under heavy strain.
Hand SewingFix a Popped Seam in a Stretchy Garment
Close a seam in a T-shirt, leggings or sweatshirt that has split when the fabric stretched. A beginner can do short splits up to about 4 in (10 cm). Long splits, swimwear and seams that carry stress are better done on a machine with a stretch stitch, or by a tailor.
Hand SewingHand-Hem a Pair of Trousers
Shorten plain woven trousers and hem them with a blind hem stitch. This suits a confident beginner on simple, straight-legged trousers. Jeans, lined trousers, cuffs, thick wool and tapered legs need more advanced technique.
Hand SewingMend a Small Hole
Close a hole smaller than 1/2 in (12 mm) in a woven shirt or light knit using a darn. This suits a confident beginner on cotton. Larger holes, holes at stress points and fine knitwear need more advanced work or a professional.
Hand SewingSecure a Loose Lining
Reattach a lining that has come away from the hem of a jacket, skirt or coat. A beginner can do this when the lining fabric is sound. Torn linings and linings sewn into sleeves or collars need more advanced technique.
Hand SewingSew a Patch onto a Garment
Attach a fabric patch or badge to a jacket, bag or jeans with whipstitch or blanket stitch. This suits a beginner on cotton or denim. Leather, waterproof fabric and stretchy knits need more advanced technique.
Hand SewingMake a Simple Drawstring Pouch
Sew a small cotton pouch with a casing and two drawstring cords, entirely by hand. It uses running stitch, backstitch and a hem fold, and suits a beginner who has practiced those stitches. Lined pouches and thicker fabrics need more advanced technique.
Sewing MachineThe Parts of a Sewing Machine
A tour of every main part of a basic domestic sewing machine and what each one does, so the controls make sense before you touch them.
Sewing MachineSupplies You Need to Start Machine Sewing
What each basic sewing tool is for, and which ones to buy first so you can sew without spending more than you need to.
Sewing MachineChoosing the Right Machine Needle
How needle type and size change the way fabric sews, with a table matching common fabrics to needles.
Sewing MachinePractice Sewing on Paper, then Scrap Fabric
A short set of exercises that build control of the foot pedal and fabric guiding before you sew anything you care about.
Sewing MachineSetting Up Your Machine Safely
How to place, power and prepare your machine so it runs safely and comfortably before you thread it.
Sewing MachineWinding a Bobbin
How to wind thread onto an empty bobbin so it is ready to load into the machine.
Sewing MachinePutting the Bobbin into the Machine
How to load a wound bobbin in either a drop-in (top-loading) or front-loading machine so the thread unwinds in the right direction.
Sewing MachineThreading the Upper Thread
The general path the top thread follows from the spool to the needle, and why the presser foot must be up while you do it.
Sewing MachineBringing the Bobbin Thread Up
How to pull the lower thread through the needle plate so both threads lie together behind the foot, ready to sew.
Sewing MachineSelecting a Straight Stitch
How to choose the straight stitch and check that the machine is set up for plain seam sewing.
Sewing MachineSetting the Stitch Length
How long each stitch should be for seams, basting and topstitching, and how to set and test it.
Sewing MachineSewing a Straight Line
How to guide fabric through the machine in a straight line at steady speed.
Sewing MachineStarting and Securing a Seam
How to lock the ends of a seam so the stitches do not pull out, using backstitching or an alternative.
Sewing MachineSewing a Consistent Seam Allowance
How to use the guide lines on the needle plate to keep the seam allowance (the width between stitching and fabric edge) even along a seam.
Sewing MachinePivoting at a Corner
How to turn a corner while the needle stays in the fabric so the stitching makes a neat, sharp angle.
Sewing MachineSewing Curves
How to guide fabric around a gentle curve and keep the seam allowance even.
Sewing MachineZigzag Stitch
How to set and sew a zigzag stitch, and how width and length change its look and its use.
Sewing MachineFinishing Raw Edges
Three simple ways to stop woven fabric from fraying along a cut edge: zigzag, pinking and turn-and-stitch.
Sewing MachineChanging the Needle
How to remove a used needle and fit a new one with the flat side facing the right way for your machine.
Sewing MachineFixing Common Stitching Problems
A checklist for the most common machine problems: thread nests, skipped stitches, broken thread and loose or tight stitches.
Sewing MachineCleaning Your Machine
How to remove lint from the parts you can safely reach, and when to oil only as the manual directs.
Sewing MachineStraight Seams, Start to Finish
A complete plain seam on woven fabric: pin, sew, secure, press and finish.
Sewing MachineUsing Reverse Stitching
How and when to use the reverse control to lock stitches, strengthen stress points and fix small slips.
Sewing MachinePractical Uses for Zigzag
Everyday jobs for the zigzag stitch: finishing edges, sewing stretch seams, joining overlapped edges and making buttonhole-like bars.
Sewing MachineNarrow Hem
A small, neat hem about 1/4 in (6 mm) deep, good for light fabric and for napkins, scarves and ruffles.
Sewing MachineBasic Double-Fold Garment Hem
The standard hem for trousers, skirts and sleeves, folded twice so the raw edge is enclosed, then sewn by machine.
Sewing MachineFinishing Seam Allowances
Methods that stop the inside of a seam from fraying and make a garment last longer.
Sewing MachineTopstitching
A visible line of stitching on the right side of the fabric that holds seams flat and adds a finished look.
Sewing MachineSewing Darts
A dart is a stitched wedge that takes in fabric so a garment fits the curve of the body. This tutorial sews a simple straight dart.
Sewing MachineElastic Casing Waistband
A fabric tunnel (casing) along a waist or cuff edge that holds a length of elastic, as used in simple skirts, shorts and pajama trousers.
Sewing MachineReinforcing Stress Points
Extra stitching at places that take strain, such as pocket corners, the ends of zipper seams and hem openings.
Sewing MachineSewing Woven Cotton and Lightweight Denim
How to set up and sew stable woven fabrics, from quilting cotton to lightweight denim, without skipped stitches or broken needles.
Sewing MachineSimple Seams on Knit Fabric
How to sew a basic seam on stretch knit so the stitches stretch with the fabric and do not snap.
Sewing MachineApplying Patches and Patch Reinforcements
How to sew a fabric patch onto a garment, either as decoration or as reinforcement over a worn spot.
AlterationsFit and Measurement Guide
How to take the measurements an alteration depends on, and how to judge fit before you stitch anything permanently.
AlterationsPreparation Checklist Before Cutting
A step-by-step list to complete before you cut or permanently stitch any garment. Tick each item off in order.
AlterationsAlteration Tools and What They Do
The tools worth owning for altering clothes, with a plain description of what each one is for.
AlterationsWhat Can and Cannot Be Altered Easily
A realistic guide to which garments suit a beginner alteration and which ones are better left to a professional.
AlterationsShorten Trousers
Shorten a pair of unlined woven trousers while keeping the leg straight and the hem level.
AlterationsShorten Jeans and Keep the Original Hem
Shorten jeans by moving the original hem up the leg, so the heavy stitching and the faded edge are preserved.
AlterationsShorten a Skirt
Shorten a straight or gently flared skirt, working out the hem allowance and keeping the hem level.
AlterationsShorten a Dress, Including Curved Hems
Shorten a simple dress, with notes for curved hems, where the allowance is narrower and the fullness must be eased.
AlterationsShorten Simple Sleeves
Shorten simple, unlined sleeves that end in a plain hem, with no placket or cuff.
AlterationsHand-Sewn Invisible Hem
Sew a hem by hand with small stitches that cannot be seen on the outside of the garment.
AlterationsMachine-Sewn Visible Hem
Sew a hem by machine with a straight line of stitching visible on the outside, as on jeans, casual trousers and cotton skirts.
AlterationsHem Knit and Stretch Fabric
Hem a T-shirt, jersey or other knit fabric using a stitch that stretches, so the thread does not snap when the garment is worn.
AlterationsTake In a Waistband at Centre Back
Make trousers or jeans smaller at the waist by removing fabric at the centre back of the waistband. Jeans are a harder job because of the bulk.
AlterationsAdjusting a Skirt Waistband
Make the waist of a simple skirt up to 1 1/2 in (4 cm) smaller by moving the fastening or by taking in the side seams straight through the waistband. Letting a waistband out is possible only by a small amount.
AlterationsTake In Side Seams on a Skirt or Dress
Make a simple skirt or dress smaller by sewing new, deeper side seams inside the old ones.
AlterationsTake In Loose Trousers Through the Seat and Legs
Reduce loose trousers by re-sewing the centre back seam, the outside leg seam and the inseam, with notes on what each seam changes.
AlterationsTake In a Simple Shirt at the Sides and Sleeves
Take in a simple woven shirt through the side seams and underarm sleeve seams for a closer fit.
AlterationsUse Darts to Improve Fit
Add or deepen a dart to remove extra fabric at the waist, bust or back, so the garment follows the body better.
AlterationsLet Out Seams
Make a garment slightly bigger by sewing along the inner edge of an existing seam, but only if there is enough seam allowance.
AlterationsWhen a Garment Cannot Easily Be Let Out
How to recognise when letting out will not work, and what to do instead.
AlterationsShorten Simple Straps
Shorten fixed fabric straps on a sundress, camisole or top by moving where the strap attaches.
AlterationsShorten an Elastic Waistband
Tighten a stretched or overly long elastic waistband by shortening the elastic inside the casing.
AlterationsReplace Basic Elastic
Remove old, stretched elastic from a waistband casing and thread through new elastic using a safety pin or a bodkin (a blunt tool for threading elastic).
AlterationsRepair a Loose Waistband Seam
Re-stitch a waistband seam that has come loose, so the waistband is attached firmly to the garment again.
AlterationsAdjust a Simple Neckline or Opening
Make a plain neckline slightly higher or a small opening slightly smaller, only on garments where the construction allows.
AlterationsReattach Belt Loops
Sew a loose or missing belt loop back onto a waistband so it holds a belt again.
AlterationsReplace a Drawstring
Thread a new cord or tape through a casing, to replace a lost or frayed drawstring.
AlterationsReinforce Pockets
Strengthen a pocket that is splitting at a corner or pulling away, so it stops tearing further.
AlterationsSecure Loose Seams and Facings
Tack down a facing that flips out at the neckline or armhole, and close small loose seams, using small hidden stitches.
RepairsSew a Missing Button Back On
Replace a button that has fallen off a shirt, coat or trousers so it holds firmly and sits at the right height. Hand sewing is the right method here, because a machine cannot sew a button onto a finished garment without special equipment.
RepairsFix a Split Seam
Close a seam where the stitching has broken but the fabric is still whole. Use a machine for a long split on a woven garment and hand backstitch for a short one or a seam in an awkward place.
RepairsRepair a Popped Seam on Stretch Fabric
Mend a seam that has burst open on a T-shirt, leggings or other knit. A machine with a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch is preferable. Hand sewing works for small splits if you leave the stitches loose.
RepairsClose a Small Hole in Woven or Fine Knit Fabric
Close a hole up to 1/2 in (12 mm) across, such as a snag or moth hole, from the wrong side. By hand is preferable, since you can control tiny stitches. A fusible backing adds strength where the fabric around the hole is thin. The mend shows as a small line close up.
RepairsDarn a Hole in a Sweater or Sock
Rebuild the missing knit by weaving new yarn across the hole in a grid. Hand darning is the usual method for knits, because machine stitching stiffens the fabric and stops it stretching. A darn shows as a woven patch and feels firmer than the knit around it.
RepairsRepair a Torn Pocket Bag
Fix the inner pocket bag when keys, coins or lint have worn through it. Machine sewing is quicker when you can pull the pocket out of the garment; hand sewing suits small tears or awkward corners.
RepairsReinforce a Worn Pocket Corner
Strengthen the top corner of a pocket opening where the fabric is thinning or starting to rip, using a bar tack (a block of tight stitches that locks the corner). A machine bar tack is preferable for speed; hand-stitched bar tacks are neat on a single corner.
RepairsReattach or Replace a Belt Loop
Sew a loose belt loop back onto the waistband, or make a new one from a strip of matching fabric. A machine with a jeans needle gives the strongest result on denim, while hand sewing with a thimble is fine on lighter trousers.
RepairsMend a Small Tear in Woven Fabric
Repair a straight or L-shaped tear of up to 2 in (5 cm) with fusible interfacing behind it, then stitch across the tear. Machine zigzag is preferable for sturdy fabric, and hand stitching is gentler on delicate cloth. The mend shows close up and the area stays weaker than whole fabric.
RepairsPatch Jeans With an Outside Patch
Cover a worn spot or hole with a fabric patch stitched on the outside of the jeans. Machine topstitching is stronger. Hand sewing is easier on a knee or in a narrow leg where the machine will not reach.
RepairsMend a Hole in Denim From the Inside
Repair a hole with a backing patch inside, then fill the hole with rows of stitches that imitate the weave. A machine gives a firmer fill, while hand running stitches suit small holes and give more control.
RepairsFix a Loose or Fallen Hem
Sew a hem back into place where the stitching or the hem tape has come undone. A hand blind hem is preferable on dress trousers, skirts and dresses because it hardly shows. A machine hem is fine on jeans, casual trousers and curtains.
RepairsReattach a Loose Lining
Sew a lining back to a hem or seam where it has come loose, so it stops hanging below the garment. Hand sewing is the right method, since you cannot reach the inside of a finished garment with a machine.
RepairsMend a Small Tear Near a Seam
Repair a tear that starts at or runs beside a seam. Where the fit allows, take a slightly deeper seam to cut the damage away. Where it does not, back the tear with interfacing and restitch. Machine is preferable for the seam, while hand sewing suits the interfacing method.
RepairsReinforce Areas Prone to Wear
Strengthen thinning fabric before it holes, at inner thighs, elbows, knees and pocket corners. Hand stitching is preferable on thin areas, since you control the tension. Machine rows are faster for a large flat area.